At first glance, a brooch may seem decorative. But throughout history, it has carried far more than aesthetic value. It has secured garments, signalled status, marked grief, proclaimed allegiance, and communicated identity, all without a word. In 2025, the brooch is reemerging in fashion, but its roots trace a deep and complex history that mirrors shifts in power, craftsmanship, and self-expression.
The brooch has existed for over 4,000 years, first appearing in the Bronze Age as a fibula, a practical clasp used by ancient Greeks, Romans, and Etruscans to secure cloaks and tunics. These early brooches were utilitarian, but their form evolved quickly. By the time of the Roman Empire, they had become status symbols, crafted from bronze, silver, or gold, often adorned with enamel or semi-precious stones.
In early medieval Europe, brooches took on even greater cultural weight. The ornate Celtic penannular brooches, such as the Tara Brooch (circa 700 AD), featured intricate filigree, goldwork, and iconography, often reserved for the elite. Worn by both men and women, these pieces marked one’s place in the social and spiritual hierarchy.
By the Renaissance, brooches had become central to court fashion across Europe. Nobles commissioned pieces laden with gemstones, cameos, and religious motifs. Brooches became a medium for storytelling, depicting mythological scenes, family crests, or political affiliations. Portraiture of the time reveals how essential they were to royal identity; Queen Elizabeth I often wore brooches inscribed with symbolism as part of her elaborate state attire.
In the Victorian era, the brooch took on a new role: sentiment. Mourning brooches containing a lock of hair from a deceased loved one were common, especially after the death of Prince Albert in 1861. These pieces were deeply personal, often engraved and worn over the heart. They blended public decorum with private grief, acting as emotional expression in a highly codified society.
The 20th century brought a radical shift. In the Art Deco era, brooches embraced modernist geometry and streamlined glamour. Later, in the 1980s, they became subversive again: oversized, metallic, and often worn on sharp-shouldered blazers. Think Madeleine Albright, who famously used brooches as diplomatic code during her tenure as U.S. Secretary of State, or the late Queen Elizabeth II, who wore them not just for tradition, but often to quietly comment on political moments.
In 2025, the brooch is not simply back. It’s being reinterpreted. Online searches for brooches are up 60% year-over-year on Vestiaire Collective. The RealReal has reported a noticeable increase in demand for archival designs by Cartier, Chanel, and Van Cleef & Arpels. At the same time, contemporary designers like Miu Miu Schiaparelli, and Phoebe Philo are incorporating brooches into their collections.
What’s driving the shift? After years of minimalism, there's a renewed desire for personality in dressing. Uniform silhouettes, made up of neutrals, tailoring, and repetition, have created space for detail to reemerge as a marker of individuality. A brooch allows for a statement without excess. A way to add detail without conforming to trends. Brooches are being worn across lapels, collars, bags, belts, even shoes. And while the forms may be different, whether sculptural, ironic, or minimal, the function is familiar: they draw attention, convey identity, and carry personal meaning.
Just as they once signalled status, sentiment, or allegiance, brooches today continue to do what they always have. Say something, without ever needing a single word.
Sources:
Brooches Are In-Demand Again and Ready to Refresh Your Wardrobe by Freya Drohan, 2025
